Spring Waves
"Surfing is the art of wave rolling."♪ Ah, the surf waves are emerging when a strong storm or hurricane occurs in the ocean, and the storm wind blows in the same direction for a few days in a row. The vast water masses come in motion and, like water circles, carry hurricane energy over vast distances. When the “rounds” reach the terrestrial, the coastal “spot” (spot is the place of skating, usually the reef or the beach) come the waves.
The size of the wave depends on the distance travelled by the " swell " (swell is the mass of water supplied by storm energy), on its original strength and on the shape of the shore or logic (break is the structure of the coastline which defines the shape of the wave).
When it comes to the coast and the water level decreases, the wave energy below the surface is pushed out, and the wave begins to grow rapidly. At some point, it becomes fragile, its peak breaks and falls on the face of the wave.
The place where the waves break is called break line.
Depending on the width of the bottom, there are three types of waves: peak (intranet), reef (reef) and beach (bic).
Pick waves (synthbroke) - appear in places where the bottom is formed by a sharp bending. There's a very long, practical form of wave on these sweats. One of the world ' s best bandits is a place called Gefreys Bay in South Africa, where almost a kilometre can be traveled on some waves.
Reef waves (Rifbrick) are formed on a reef or a coral shelf. Owing to the constant shape of the bottom, such waves are permanent in shape and size. Pipeline (Pipeline) on Oaxo(Oaho), Hawaii or Tchupu (Teahupoo) on Taiti belongs to the most exciting but also to the most dangerous planets on Earth. The general rule for all newcomers is to avoid reef waves.
Bitchbrike is a wave that comes from sandbag bending, the most common wave type. Regrettably, the batchworks have much greater instability and mobility than peak and reef waves, as the shape and length of the waves are constantly changing, but rock or coral in such places is not frequent, so the beach waves are the best choice for starters.
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